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Island of empires
A rail journey through ancient Java
 • 
Spencer Wells
2
Stone sentinels of Central Sulawesi
The mysterious megaliths of the Bada Valley
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Spencer Wells
4

May 2024

A run for the border
A canceled visa, a very tight deadline, and high-altitude antics - oh my...
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Spencer Wells
3

March 2024

Suspended between life and death
The fascinating culture of Tana Toraja
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Spencer Wells
2

January 2024

First Substack-iversary
Farewell to an eventful year - and a look forward
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Spencer Wells
5
The land of iron
Lake Matano and the birth of Nusantara
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Spencer Wells
4

November 2023

The Spice Islands
My journey across Wallacea ends in the fabled Spice Islands of North Maluku
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Spencer Wells
3

October 2023

Bye, Besse
The jeep begins her long sea journey home while I head to North Maluku
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Spencer Wells
2

September 2023

Manaaahhhdo...
The journey across Sulawesi is complete
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Spencer Wells
2

August 2023

Jeep update
The 'tactical nuclear option' it is
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Spencer Wells
3

July 2023

The mystery of Snake Island
A deep dive into Wallacean biogeography
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Spencer Wells
2
Sulawesi's extraordinary karst galleries
The Maros-Pangkep region is home to the world’s oldest figurative art
 • 
Spencer Wells
2
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